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发布时间：2022-04-19 15:24
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时间：2023-09-04 10:46
古装衣
古装衣是越剧的特色服装，在剧中年轻女子和中年妇女经常穿戴。上衣有水袖或本色连袖，外加云肩或飘带；长裙上搭配有短裙、或中裙、佩、腰带、玉饰。短、中、长裙又有折裥和无折裥之分。按身份不同，古装衣又分为仕女衣、民间衣、宫装衣。其特点是裙长衣短，胸腰收紧，形体分明。
越剧蟒
越剧蟒首先在色彩上，不再按传统的上五色的蟒，分阶、分身份严格穿戴的衣箱制，而是下五色、间色的都有，但又参照上五色色阶等级制的习俗，在间色中选择。如《打金枝》中蟒的色彩、纹样更简炼更随意，《孟丽君》中用了许多的间色蟒袍。另一种方法是参照历史典律和官阶运用色彩，如《长乐宫》中老皇帝穿黑衣，用“黼”、“黻”、“粉米”、“日”、“月”、“宗彝”、“藻”、“山”、“星”、“华虫”、“火”等象征性图案。越剧有时把传统的“蟒”改为袍制，叫蟒袍。在制作上和传统的“蟒”有很大的区别。蟒不再是整件夹里，而前后是麻衬，使前后挺括硬撑，以显官风十足。发展到后来，蟒的前后内衬有的干脆不用麻衬，用布刮浆代替。
越剧靠
越剧男班早期都用传统大靠，女班也沿用传统大靠（硬靠）。改革后，武生很少用靠旗、靠肚，小生串演武生更不用靠旗。“靠身”、“靠脚”、“靠肩”，不再用“网子穗”或“排须”、搂带，一般也不用双层靠肩。靠肚不再是传统的平面一大块，改为围腰的“腰包”再束虎头腰带。靠衣不绣花，都用甲片。*33年春，袁雪芬饰演《木兰从军》中的花木兰，所穿戎装，甲片开始用铜片，上甲、下甲都用，以后，纹样有“鱼鳞甲”、“丁字甲”、“人字甲”、“龟背甲”等，有金绣，也有用金缎、银缎剪贴，或金银宽边花版线缝纫上去。护心镜有用克罗米铜泡，或盘金、盘银。
越剧裙
越剧的裙主要是花旦的百裥裙。最早穿的都是传统大裥裙，前后有“马面”，俗称“马面裙”，以后去掉后“马面”，改为单马面裙，经常用于老旦。传统的“鱼鳞百裥裙”往往作衬裙使用。以后大裥改成五分宽的百裥裙。40年代雪声剧团受清末仕女画的影响，设计了“褙裙”。这种褙裙，罩在大裥裙外，正面用佩，佩长及脚面，很简洁。这种“褙裙”在《梁祝哀史》、《嫦娥奔月》等剧中反复使用。短裙，行话称“包*”，有折裥的，有不打折裥的，有网眼雕花的，有绣花、贴花、斜裁、平裁的，花样繁多。
越剧云肩
最早用的都是传统大云肩，以后发展到百多种，如：对开云肩、珠云肩（白珠或金、银珠穿成的）、有领云肩、无领云肩，如意云肩、花形云肩、网眼云肩等。
越剧褶子与帔
越剧小生穿的褶子是不开门襟的，有圆领、斜领、对开领，开门襟的是“帔”。这种“帔”往往在剧中有夫妻俩出场时，运用相同色彩，称“对帔”。越剧帔在领口上又变化出多种样式，如斜襟帔、直襟帔、翻领帔、如意领帔等。小生褶子与帔，多用间色，花纹偏一边，有四君子花纹（梅、兰、竹、菊），也有用牡丹、玉兰等花纹，领边也越改越窄，约二寸，朝秀美的方向发展。越剧所有衣服在服装的“夹窝”里都挖“裉袋”（夹窝裁剪成圆形），所以越剧的戏服，双肩挥洒自如、平稳服贴而且舒服。
盔帽靴鞋
盔帽
越剧早期男班演传统戏时的盔帽，是借用生活中的秀才帽或有额玉的瓜皮帽，有的是在拆除破旧小庙时从菩萨神像头上取下的盔帽。以后租用绍剧、京剧的服装和盔帽。女班进入上海后，主要演员有了“私彩行头”，身上穿的戏服、头上戴的盔帽都是到南恒泰彩靴店或广东路戏服店买的。而其他穿“堂中行头”的演员，则是穿戴租来的戏服、盔帽。这些盔帽基本上是承袭了京剧或昆剧的帽箱制，如《香笺泪》《梁祝》中小生戴的盔帽，都是京剧的文生巾。30年代后期到40年代初，盔帽上，用较多的泡珠和亮片。由于越剧开始进行改革，向盔帽工艺师傅们提出了改良盔帽的要求。新文艺工作者参加了越剧改革后，提出越剧盔帽应在传统的基础上加以革新。通过几十年改革实践，完全打破了传统的帽箱制束缚，吸收古代人物绘画的养料和历史生活习俗资料，不断加以创制。改革后的越剧盔帽，主要在制作、式样、纹样、配色和用料等方面，进行了大胆的革新。在用料上不采用反光性较强的软缎，而多用丝绒、利亚绒、绉缎或绸类。近年来随着纺织工业的发展，也采用了乔其绒、光明绒等具有吸光性的面料，所以在舞台上的色彩比较稳定，逐步形成了轻、巧、美和多样化的特点。越剧盔帽在改革中注意运用传统色彩和兼顾生活风俗习惯。如帝王、皇族常用明*、杏*，婚庆喜事常用红色，丧葬戴孝常用白色。纹样色彩多以点翠为主，兼用其他色彩，强调素净、简洁。盔帽上贴银盘金要求和服装一致。纹样用法，帝王、王族都用“行龙”、“正龙”、“夔龙”；皇妃、公主都用“凤鸟牡丹”；老年角色都用“八宝”、“福禄寿”字样；武行角色都采用动物变形图案；文行角色都采用花草变形图案，并兼用装饰性的回纹、云纹和几何纹，但形态已变化，装饰的位置不同。传统盔帽上常用不同颜色的绒球进行装饰，而越剧盔帽却用得很少，这是越剧盔帽区别于京昆盔帽的重要标志。在新编历史剧中，越剧把历史生活中的“进贤冠”、“方山冠”、“通天冠”、“束发冠”、“法冠”、“巧士冠”、“缁布冠”等加以改良，运用到舞台人物中来。传统凤冠是皇后、嫔妃和公主所戴，女子在婚礼大典时也戴这种凤冠。越剧除了传统剧目中仍戴凤冠外，一般在其他剧目中不再戴这种装满绒球的凤冠了。如《打金枝》中的公主、皇后，《长乐宫》中的皇后，《孟丽君》中的孟丽君，都改凤冠为额形，或装插，头上露出髻发，采用正凤为主，边凤插戴两旁，或对凤为主，边凤插戴两旁，然后再把“如意”、“单凤”、“步摇”等头饰进行装戴。
靴鞋
越剧男班在“草台班”时期，演员已穿租借的靴鞋。女班进上海后，学京剧、绍剧穿高靴，特别是大面、老生，官带装扮穿高靴居多。女班小生穿的靴鞋都不高，穿云鞋，有平底的鞋，有一寸左右的鞋。小旦为弥补身材过矮，在鞋内垫高二三寸。30年代末“高升舞台”演出《彩姨娘》，筱丹桂饰彩姨娘，为了增高身材曾用过“踩跷”。直到*33年（1944年）演《新梁祝哀史》的男角小生才穿一寸左右的薄高靴。解放后，小生穿三套云高靴居多，一般都要二三寸左右，个别演员还要再加内高。1955年，拍《梁山伯与祝英台》电影后，靴鞋改革，不但穿高靴，在靴头上也改成有云饰纹的花样或绣花，色彩套成强烈和谐的三色，俗称三套云高靴。
翻译 Apparel categories and characteristics of
Costume clothing
Shaoxing opera costume clothes are the characteristics of clothing, at the play of young women and middle-aged women often wear. Color shirt has long sleeves or even a sleeve, plus the shoulder or streamer cloud; have short skirts with long skirt on, or in dress, wear, belt, jade ornaments. Short, medium and long skirt and folding裥and non-folding裥division. According to different identity, costume clothing is divided into ladies clothing, civil clothing, clothing宫装. Its characteristics are the short skirts long clothing, thoracolumbar tightened distinct shape.
Shaoxing python
Shaoxing python on the first in color, no longer by the traditional five colors on the python, sub-bands, sub-worn suitcase Strict identity system, but under the colors between the color of both, but the light of five colors on color hierarchy customs, inter-color at select Medium. Such as "beating Golden Bough" in python colors, patterns more简炼more freely, "孟丽君" spent much of the inter-color蟒袍. Another method is by reference to the historical canon and rank the use of color, such as "长乐宫" in the old emperor to wear black, with "embroidery", "Fu", "rice flour", "Date", "month", "cases Yi "," sp "," sa "," Star "," Howard insects "," fire "and other symbolic patterns. Shaoxing opera sometimes put the traditional "python" to gowns system, called蟒袍. Up in the proction and the traditional "Python" there is vastly different. Python is no longer a whole folder, and Ma are lining before and after, so that before and keeps relinquish its hard-bound in order to significantly Official full wind. Later development, python before and after the lining and some simply do not have Ma lining, replace with a cloth squeegee.
Shaoxing opera by
Shaoxing opera classes of early man are big on tradition, female classes are also big on the traditional (hard on). Reform, Takefu rarely use on flags, on the belly, hsiaosheng Wusheng串演flag not to rely on. "By who" and "foot" and "shoulder", is no longer used as "net spike" or "platoon have to" embrace with generally do not have double-decker on the shoulder. Belly is no longer rely on traditional one large plane instead围腰the "pockets" re-bundle hookerianum belt. Embroidery on garments do not have to use a tablet. In the spring of 33 years, Yuan Xuefen as "木兰从军" of Hua Mulan, worn uniform, beginning with a piece of copper, on A, under a use, then, patterns have "a fish", "T-A", "A word", "A Turtle" and so on, there is gold embroidery, it also uses gold satin, silver satin cut and paste, or gold and silver version of line broad-brimmed Flower sewing up. Huxin Crotamiton copper mirror useful foam, or gold plate, silver plate.
Shaoxing skirt
Shaoxing Opera is mainly the skirt of the dress裥hundred. The earliest are wearing traditional dress裥, before and after the "horse face", commonly known as "Horse Noodles skirt", after the removal of the "horse face" with a single Horse Noodles skirts, often for老旦. The traditional "fish裥hundred skirts" are often used for petticoats. After the big change裥five hundred of the wide skirt裥. 40's sound of snow by the end of the Qing Dynasty Theater ladies draw the impact of the design of the "褙skirt." This褙skirts, skirts裥in large enclosures, the positive use of revolver, revolver脚面long and very concise. This "褙skirt" in the "sad history of The Butterfly Lovers", "嫦娥奔月" repeated use, such as drama. Short skirts, jargon referred to as the "butt pack"裥have folded, and has not discounted the裥, has carved mesh, and there is embroidery, applique,斜裁, Ping Conference and diverse.
Shaoxing cloud shoulder
First used in traditional Dayun shoulder, after the development of more than 100 kinds, such as: off-yun shoulder, Chu Yun shoulder (white beads or gold, Eun-joo dressed), and has collar cloud shoulder, collarless cloud shoulder, smug cloud shoulder, flower-shaped cloud shoulder, shoulder, such as mesh cloud.
Shaoxing opera褶子with the cape
Shaoxing hsiaosheng wear lapel褶子is not to open the door, and there is T, oblique collar, off the collar, lapel open a "cape." This kind of "cape" are often at play have played husband and wife, the use of the same color, called "on the cape." Shaoxing opera cape collar up again at numerous style changes, such as斜襟cape, cape straight lapel, lapel cape, cape collar and so smug. Hsiaosheng褶子and cape, with many inter-color, pattern side, there is Sijunzi patterns (plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum), is also useful Peony, Magnolia and other patterns, the more leading edge to the more narrow, about二寸, beautiful towards the direction of发展. Shaoxing opera all the clothes in the clothing of the "nest folders" and have g "裉BAG" (cut into a circular nest folders), so the Shaoxing opera costumes, shoulders, could smooth paste and comfortable clothes.
Helmets cap靴鞋
Helmets cap
Shaoxing early man drama classes at the time of his traditional helmet hat, borrowed from the life of the scholar or cap the amount of jade has the瓜皮帽, some demolition of dilapidated temple at bodhisattva statue from the helmet off the head cap. After renting绍剧, Peking Opera costumes and helmet cap. Female Class entered Shanghai, the main actor has been "the first line私彩", who wear costumes, wearing the helmet hats are to the south HengTai color boots Canton Road shop or store bought costumes. While others wear "Tong Bank of China bashing" the actor is wearing rented costumes, helmets cap. Basically, these helmet hats are inherited opera or opera hat box system, such as "sweet-笺Tears" "The Butterfly Lovers" Medium hsiaosheng helmet wearing caps, are the opera Bunsei towel. In the late 30 to early 40's, helmet hat on, with more foam beads and sequins. Shaoxing start because of the reform process to the helmet cap master made a modified helmet cap requirements. New writers and artists take part in the Shaoxing opera reform, proposed by Shaoxing opera hat helmet should be on the traditional foundation of innovation. Practice of reform over the past several decades, completely breaking the traditional hat boxes tied system, absorbing nutrients ancient painting figures and historical information on livelihood practices, and constantly be created. After the reform of Shaoxing opera hat helmet, mainly in proction, style, pattern, color and the use of materials, etc., a bold innovation. Selected materials will not be adopted at反光软缎strong, while many with velvet, Delia velvet, crepe satin or silk type. In recent years, with the development of the textile instry, has also been adopted georgette velvet, bright绒等with absorption of the fabric, so the colors on the stage at relatively stable, and has graally developed a light, clever, the United States and diversification characteristics. Shaoxing opera hat helmet use in the reform tradition of attention to color and balance of life and customs. Such as the emperor, the royal family often used bright yellow, apricot yellow, wedding event commonly used red, white funeral戴孝used. Many color patterns to point Chui mainly be used along with other colors, emphasis素净, concise. Gold silver cap helmet stickers and clothing requirements unanimous. Usage patterns, imperial, royal family are "long lines", "is long", "夔龙"; Princess, Princess Margaret are "phoenix bird Peony"; elderly roles are "eight", "Gods of Fortune" words;武行the role of deformation patterns of animal use; text lines have adopted the role of flowers and deformation patterns, and a combination of decorative paper, moire and geometric patterns, but patterns have been changes in the location of different decoration. Helmets used on the traditional hat of a different color for decorative绒球, and Shaoxing opera hat helmets are rarely used, which is different from the Shaoxing opera hats Helmets Helmets京昆an important indicator cap. At the new historical drama, the history of Shaoxing opera put life "Jinxian crown", "Katayama crown," "Babel crown", "crown hair bundle," "Law crown", "Qiao crown with a disability," "social fabric crown "and so on to be improved, the use of characters to the stage to. Traditional凤冠are Queen, Princess and Princess Margaret by Bin Dai, women at the wedding ceremony when they wear this凤冠. Shaoxing opera apart from the traditional repertoire still wearing凤冠, the general in the other no longer wears such a repertoire filled with the凤冠the绒球. Such as "beating Golden Bough" of Princess Margaret, Queen's, "长乐宫" The Queen, "孟丽君" in孟丽君have changed for the amount of凤冠shaped, or fitted plug, exposing the head hair bun, using Feng is mainly Edge Feng Dai inserted on both sides, or feng mainly edge wear on both sides of plug-feng, and then "optimistic", "single-Feng", "step-by-step shake" and other equipment to wear headgear.
靴鞋
Shaoxing man classes in the "grass Units ban" period, actors have to wear rented靴鞋. Shanghai Jin-female classes, the study opera,绍剧wear high boots, especially the different departments,老生, the official dress to wear with high boots mostly. Hsiaosheng ban female靴鞋not wear high shoes flew through the clouds, there is flat-bottomed shoes, the shoes have an inch or so.小旦is too short to make up, at two three-inch shoes elevate. 30's at the end of "The sharp rise in the stage" performance "姨娘Cai,"筱丹Gui Cai姨娘ornaments, in order to increase body has used the words "step Rocker." It was not until 33 years (1944) speech, "The Butterfly Lovers sorrow new history" man angle hsiaosheng only about an inch thin to wear high boots. After the liberation, hsiaosheng wear boots most of three cloud height, usually two three-inch or so, coupled with the indivial actors but also high. In 1955, film "Butterfly Lovers" movie after靴鞋reform, not only to wear high boots, boots at the head has turned into a cloud Microhyla or embroidery patterns, color sets of three into a strong and harmonious color, commonly known as the Three sets of cloud height boots.
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时间：2023-09-04 10:47
